A Royal Morning and the Grand Residence of the Sultan
On September 4, I awoke at The Galton Hotel. With my time in Baubau strictly limited, I had decided to spend the entire day exploring as much of the city's historical fabric as possible. Though slightly more expensive than other local options, a room rate exceeding 4,000 yen (about $27 USD) includes a generous breakfast buffet. The spread featured an array of regional staples: nasi (rice), sayur (vegetables), telur (eggs), and ayam (chicken). Each dish was a flavorful testament to Indonesia's rich culinary heritage, providing the perfect sustenance for the long day ahead.
My first destination was Istana Malige, the traditional residence of the Sultan, the supreme leader of the former Buton Sultanate. This imposing four-story structure still exudes a palpable sense of majesty.
Inside, I encountered people who continue to live there, generations dedicated to preserving and maintaining the palace. It was a quiet reminder that history here is not merely a relic of the past, but a living, breathing continuation. On the ground floor, a distinctive pineapple crest caught my eye. The pineapple, which yields only one fruit per stalk, symbolizes the Sultan as a singular, unparalleled leader within the kingdom.
The World's Largest Fortress and a Crossroads of Travelers
Next, I visited Benteng Kraton, an expansive fortress complex. Far more than a mere military stronghold, it is a functioning city within ancient walls, housing residential homes, museums, and mosques. Recognized as one of the world's largest fortresses, it stands as a monumental testament to the sheer scale and power of the historic sultanate.
Guided by a friendly local, I arrived at a massive structure in front of the mosque, which now functions much like a modern convention center. In the open plaza nearby, I crossed paths with a group of cyclists who had traveled all the way from Jakarta. Sharing stories of our respective journeys brought a fleeting but profound sense of camaraderie. Amidst these ancient ruins, the plaza transformed into a warm intersection of modern travelers, adding another layer of depth to the day's explorations.
A Breathtaking Coastline and the Culinary Delights of Baubau
Heading back to the hotel in the late afternoon, I was captivated by the coastline. The breathtaking azure waters evoked a serene, almost Hawaiian charm, and the rhythmic sound of the waves gently washed away the physical exhaustion of the day.
For dinner, I sought out a local eatery and ordered cumi-cumi (squid). Prepared fresh from a bold display at the storefront, the whole grilled squid offered a rich, savory flavor that perfectly soothed my hunger.
Before turning in for the night, I picked up gogos bakar, a traditional local snack of glutinous rice stuffed with flaked fish and grilled in leaves. As I savored its simple, comforting warmth, I reflected on the dense and unforgettable experiences of the day, quietly bringing my fleeting time in Baubau to a close.
