on the road...
Field notes
Dispatches from the road — diary entries, journey notes, and thoughts from in between.
Diary
🇮🇩 Indonesia
October 5, 2026
A Quiet Refuge in Makassar October 5th, Makassar, Indonesia. Following a grueling 14day journey through the rugged terrains of Tana Toraja, I had surrendered t…
September 26, 2026
An Unexpected Arrival in the Dead of Night On September 26, the time finally came to leave Rantepao in the heart of Tana Toraja and make my return to Makassar.…
September 25, 2026
Dark Coffee and an Unforeseen Reunion My days in Tana Toraja had finally reached their conclusion. This marked the fifth and final day of the grand Rambu Solo …
September 24, 2026
Crossing the Pass to the Coastal City of Palopo September 24th marked my penultimate day in the Tana Toraja region. My morning began with a necessary detour to…
September 23, 2026
A Serene Morning in the Shadow of the Tongkonan September 23rd marked the third day of the monumental Rambu Solo funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja. The previous …
September 22, 2026
Morning Rites and the Taste of Tradition September 22nd marked the second day of the grand Rambu Solo funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja. Waking early, I headed s…
September 21, 2026
A Grand Farewell in the Dry Season September 21st. Deep in the heart of the dry season when the rains hold off, I found myself in Tana Toraja to witness one of…
September 19, 2026
The Chill of Dawn and the Hearth of the Tongkonan At 4:30 AM on September 19, I awoke to the biting chill enveloping the traditional Torajan house, the Tongkon…
September 18, 2026
A Morning of Recovery and Earth's Bounty The morning of September 18 began with a profound sense of physical malaise lingering from the day before. To regain m…
September 17, 2026
Creative Ingenuity in Everyday Life Awakening to a beautiful sunrise on September 17, I prepared for another day immersed in the profound local culture. The pl…