Morning Breezes in the Heart of Sulawesi
August 9th—my very first morning waking up in Palu.
Tucked deep in a bay and framed by mountains in the center of Sulawesi, the city is surprisingly cool with a constant, refreshing ocean breeze blowing through.
First things first: food. I wandered about 100 meters from my stay and stumbled upon a street food stall serving Nasi Kuning. Think vibrant, turmeric-infused yellow rice topped with meat and... spaghetti! All that for just 20,000 Rupiah (about $1.30 USD). Absolute steal, right?
While eating, I casually asked the stall owner where I could buy a bus ticket. Turns out, there was a ticketing spot just a 10-minute Grab ride away—completely different from the terminal I had originally planned to check out. I successfully scored my ticket to Manado for the day after tomorrow for 480,000 Rupiah (about $30 USD).
I also grabbed a Kueni, a local fruit that tastes like an exotic mango cousin. Off to a great start!
A Hauntingly Beautiful Floating Mosque
Around noon, I took a walk along the coastline. Strong winds, beautiful views.
Out in the water, a solitary floating mosque caught my eye. It's a haunting memorial left behind after the devastating 2018 Sulawesi earthquake and tsunami. Strolling along the newly built seawalls just 150 meters away, you can really feel both the sheer power of nature and the resilience of this city.
For a late lunch, I found a ramen joint. Since it's a predominantly Muslim area, there's no pork involved. Instead, the broth hit me with a rich, bold butter flavor, topped with beef, egg, and wood ear mushrooms. Unexpected? Yes. Delicious? Absolutely.
Inside the Golden Souraja Palace
Mid-afternoon, I headed to Souraja, a traditional house of the Kaili kings. It's actually the only historical monument of its kind left in the area.
The caretaker was incredibly welcoming and gave me a private tour. He showed me the royal bedroom, reserved strictly for the King and Queen, draped in stunning yellow curtains—a color symbolizing supreme nobility in Kaili culture.
He even explained their traditional steam-bath practices (a super healthy, sauna-like method) and let me check out traditional Siga headpieces and ancient swords.
I wrapped up the day at a nearby night stall with a bowl of Binte, a comforting noodle soup loaded with sweet corn kernels.
New flavors, amazing locals, and rich history. I can't wait to see what Palu has in store for me tomorrow!
