A Day That Began with Sunrise
Rubbing the last of my sleep from my eyes, I slowly unzipped the tent. In front of me stretched a sky softly painted by the morning sun.
I had camped about 10 kilometers from Ceduna, in a quiet clearing. The dry wind, the earthy smell, and the sound of birds reminded me that even after crossing the Nullarbor, Australia’s nature was still very much alive.
Soon after setting out, the road stretched straight ahead, reminding me of the Nullarbor—but this time, there was a cycling lane.
It may seem like a small thing, but to a cyclist, that thin strip of asphalt is a gift. My heart instantly felt lighter.
Sharing the Road with Giants
Of course, the massive long vehicles were still there.
The rumble of their engines and the blast of air as they passed still made me flinch. But now, even that felt like part of the rhythm of the journey, something I was slowly learning to accept.
A Stop in Wirrulla
By midday I reached Wirrulla, a town of fewer than 100 people, sometimes called the “Gateway to the Outback.”
The Wirrulla Progress Caravan Park was small but perfect for a break, and the roadside stop had just enough to recharge.
Wandering a little further, I came across something unusual—a huge statue of a “Dinosaur Ant.” It’s an actual species of ant, said to be three times the size of ordinary ants, aggressive, and remarkably hard to kill. I shivered at the thought of meeting one in real life.
Drawn in by the Smell of Curry
After nearly 60 kilometers, a familiar smell drifted into the air—spices, warm and inviting.
It was unmistakably the smell of curry.
Following my nose, I found myself at a roadhouse run by an Indian family. Alongside the usual goods were handmade meals and snacks, filling the small shop with a homely atmosphere.
The owner, a friendly man, asked if I was cycling across Australia. When I nodded, he disappeared into the kitchen.
Minutes later, he returned with a steaming plate of curry.
“Take this with you,” he said, handing it over.
It was just a short sentence, but it carried such weight. His kindness silenced me.
A Curry That Warmed the Night
That evening, I pitched my tent in a quiet spot off the road.
Dinner was, of course, the curry he had given me.
Sitting on the earth of Australia, eating food from India—it felt like two worlds meeting in the steam of that meal. The curry was slightly spicy, yet gentle, warming not only my body but also my heart.
What stayed with me most was not the taste, but the kindness behind the simple words: “Take this.”
