The Need for Speed: Nunukan to Tarakan
August 6th. Today's mission: catch a ferry from Nunukan to Tarakan.
I honestly had no idea how many boats ran this route, but it turns out there are about nine a day. Way more than I expected!
Grabbed a quick breakfast and hopped on the 7:20 AM ferry. And wow... this thing was fast. Like, violently fast. We were bouncing so hard over the waves I legitimately thought the hull was going to shatter into pieces.
We made it in one piece, though. First impression of Tarakan? The incredible water villages right by the port. It immediately gave the town a unique, raw vibe.
The Zero-Info Ticket Hunt
Next up: figuring out how the heck to get to my next destination, Palu.
I walked about a kilometer to a local warung, ordered some Nasi Rawon, and started asking around.
Turns out, I couldn't buy my Pelni (ferry) ticket there. I had to walk another 2 kilometers to an office on the completely opposite side of the port. Gotta love the absolute lack of online information here. It's raw, old-school backpacking.
Deep Dive into Tidung Culture
Then, the real adventure began. A local uncle—introduced by someone I met back in Nunukan—offered to show me around town.
Tarakan is deeply rooted in Tidung culture. He took me to a traditional cultural center that felt as grand and historical as a massive Japanese temple.
Getting to see the traditional artifacts up close—like the baby cradles and a special postpartum bed called selakado—was fascinating.
There's something special about physically being in a space and seeing how things are built. You just don't get that profound realization from reading a textbook.
Seeing Red: Sulawesi BBQ and VIP Hats
For lunch, another guide joined us, and we hit up a Sulawesi-style restaurant, preparing me for my next island hop.
Everything was roasted over an open fire and covered in red chilies.
I was fully bracing myself for an absolute firestorm in my mouth, but surprisingly? Not that spicy! Honestly, Korean or Chinese food packs way more heat. This was just pure, rich flavor.
After lunch, we visited a local artisan who makes traditional woven hats.
This guy is an absolute legend—he even makes hats for former President Joko Widodo! Everything is 100% handmade, and watching his craftsmanship up close was mind-blowing.
Seeing the dedication put into every single thread really gave me a newfound appreciation for the culture.
Wild Monkeys and Travel Serendipity
Later, we swung by a water settlement area to see wild proboscis monkeys.
They were just chilling in the trees about 10 to 15 meters away.
Super relaxed, super cute.
Wrapped up the day grabbing coffee at a cool, campground-style cafe run by some friends of my guides.
Originally, I just wanted to pass through Tarakan and head straight to Palu. If I had rushed and just jumped on the next boat, I would've missed out on all of this. Slowing down, connecting with locals, and letting serendipity take the wheel is honestly the absolute best part of traveling.
