Exhaustion and Euphoria
June 12th. What a grueling day.
I am completely wiped out. So many incredible things happened today, but honestly, the sheer exhaustion is threatening to blur those wonderful memories.
A Change of Heart: Why I Turned South
Today marked the first real day of this journey, and my original plan was to head north from San Carlos.
In fact, I had already started heading that way when I crossed paths with a former school teacher. We hit it off, talked a lot, and they even treated me to a meal. Just a genuinely wonderful, kind person.
But as I continued, something gnawed at me. Why was I rushing north?
I realized my motivation had boiled down to a meaningless numbers game. When you rush, you lose out on so many important things. So, right then and there, I scrapped the itinerary and pivoted south toward Dumaguete.
It is a 170km stretch. Instead of the usual week, I am giving myself 10 days to take it all in at a much slower pace.
The Merciless Highway
The reality of the southern route hit me fast. The road out of San Carlos is agonizingly straight, with virtually zero shade.
Apart from a few drink stalls clustered within a 500-meter radius of the towns, there is absolutely nothing but an open, unforgiving highway. It was a brutal test of endurance.
Just as I was nearing my physical limit and crossing a boundary line while riding on the right side, I met a local. Out of nowhere, they offered me a free spot to pitch my tent.
A Hilltop Haven and Coconut Wine
The catch? The campsite was perched on top of a hill, about 15 to 20 meters up.
It was only a four-minute climb, but with my legs feeling like lead, it was pure agony. I found myself dreading how I would even manage the descent tomorrow morning.
But the evening made every drop of sweat worthwhile.
I ended up hanging out and drinking tuba with everyone. They even fed me sardines and rice, asking for absolutely nothing in return. I was overwhelmed with gratitude.
It was, without a doubt, a phenomenal time.
The fatigue is definitely sitting heavy in my bones right now, but underneath it all, I know the warmth of the people made this an unforgettable day.