Morning by the Beach
Greetings from the coast of Thailand.
It is November, the season when the east coast is said to be drenched in monsoon rains. Yet today, the sky was clear, and I stood before a beach so breathtaking that it felt like a blessing.
The waves rolled in gently, the horizon stretched endlessly, and beside me sat a dog who quietly kept watch. He didnât bark, didnât stir, just sat there as if sharing the moment with me. I couldnât help but think: if every dog in the world were this calm, life on the road would feel so much easier.
Then the sun began to rise.
The colors of dawn painted the sky in shades of orange and gold, spilling across the sea in brilliance. I whispered to myselfâit was overwhelming, a sight I had never imagined I would witness abroad before starting this journey.
And in that moment, I felt gratitude for my past selfâthe one who decided to be curious, to leave comfort behind, and to set out on this unknown path.
A Slow Morning and a Hearty Breakfast
The morning air carried a relaxed stillness. My clothes had finally dried, and with no rush, I was able to gather my belongings at an easy pace. It felt like a giftâto start the day without hurry.
I set out in search of breakfast. From the outside, the town seemed quiet, almost too rural to expect much. But as I pedaled through, stalls appearedâserving noodles, rice dishes, and local favorites.
Wanting energy for the road ahead, I chose a rice meal. It came steaming hot, fragrant, and filling. The price? Just 40 baht, around 181 yen. Inexpensive, but powerful fuel for my body. With every bite, I could feel strength returning, preparing me for the 80 kilometers waiting ahead.
The Challenge of the Road and the Dogs
The weather was perfectâsunny but not burning, breezy but not harsh. It was the kind of day cyclists dream of. Yet, I knew better than to relax completely. On such roads, danger doesnât always come from trafficâit often comes from dogs.
Barely an hour into the ride, my fears became real. I had already been chased by about ten dogs. The pattern was familiar: temples along the roadside, packs lying in wait.
When one dog barked, the others joined, running with an intensity that felt like they wanted to tear me apart. This time, I managed to accelerate before they fully reacted, escaping without confrontation. But the sound of barking behind me still sent chills down my spine. Encounters like this never get easier.
Unexpected Encounters: Horses and Cows
After passing what I jokingly thought of as a âdog zone,â something surprising appeared ahead. Not cows, which I often saw along the road, but horses. Free-roaming, standing tall under the sun.
It was the first time in my Thai journey that I had come across horses, and the rarity made the moment feel special. A reminder that even familiar landscapes can hold unexpected surprises.
Not long after, as if the world wanted to balance the equation, I finally did see cowsâbut not grazing in fields. Instead, they appeared inside the back of a truck, being transported somewhere. To meet them in such a way, here of all places, felt almost miraculous in its own odd way.
A Strange Rest Stop and a Hot Spring
Soon after, I stopped in search of a restroom. It took some wandering and asking around before a staff member guided me to one. What I found was unusualâa restroom set in a wide, open space, unlike any I had seen before. Somehow, it felt refreshing just to use it.
Not far beyond lay one of todayâs goals: a hot spring. The entrance fee was just 20 bahtâunbelievably cheap. My curiosity grew as I walked toward the pools, surrounded by nature, with signs warning that monkeys could also appear here.
Finally, I dipped in.
The warmth of the water wrapped around me instantly. It was perfectânot too hot, around 38 to 39 degrees. My body melted into relaxation, every tired muscle soothed.
âHot springs are the best, arenât they?â said a fellow bather beside me, a cheerful man with a thick beard. His energy was contagious. We laughed, took a photo together, and he suggested I explore further ahead to spot monkeys.
I didnât see monkeys, but I stumbled upon a small limestone cave instead. The sight struck me with aweâformations carved over thousands, perhaps millions of years. To think of the time it took to create this space was humbling. Once again, I felt gratitudeâfor nature, for chance, for the strangers who guided me there.
Evening with Kind Hosts
Re-energized by the hot spring, I continued riding. After two more hours, I arrived at my resting place for the nightâa guesthouse deep in the countryside, run by an elderly couple.
They spoke only Thai, but somehow I understood everything they tried to tell me. Their eyes, their gestures, the effort they put into communication carried more meaning than words.
I washed my clothes, letting them dry in the fading sun. A quiet peace settled over me.
At the end of the day, it wasnât just the kilometers I had covered, or the places I had seen. It was the kindness I had receivedâfrom strangers, from nature, even from animalsâthat left me filled with gratitude.
